Plank Tapering Guide For Scale Modeling

While working with the model boat kits, if you spend a few minutes with a piece of string or a tape measure and a ruler, you will soon see why it is essential to taper the planks to a narrower width at either one or both ends. When you measure the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel, around the outside of one of the midship frames, and then compare that measurement with the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel on a forward frame, there will be an obvious difference that can be noticed easily.

In simple theoretical terms, if the measurement at the third frame is 80mm and the fifth frame is 120mm then each plank needs to be narrowed down to 2/3 (80/120) of its full width at the third frame. By doing this the entire planks will arrive at the keel collectively. However, as per the experienced hobbyists, they always believe that the middle frames are the largest and it is at this part of the model that planks are at their full width. Towards the bow, they’ll require narrowing or tapering by an amount depending on the type of scale model you are working with.

In general terms, a bluff-bowed ship will need less tapering as compared to a sharp bowed vessel. It is possible that some sort of tapering will be needed as planks go towards the stern but it is even fairly possible that the distance, deck to the bottom of the keel, will be greater at the position of the last couple of frames than it is at midships. Where this is the scenario, the experts recommend putting in short triangular planks known as wedges or stealers.

When it comes to scale modeling, the 1^st plank is generally started in one of the following positions:

ü  With a ship that has a straight or flush upper deck then the 1^st plank is laid with its upper edge level with the deck surface. In some scenarios, it’ll have its top edge up to 5mm to 10mm under the deck level. Where this is performed, it is to make the construction of bulwarks easy at a later stage but in any case, it’ll be parallel to the line of the deck.

ü  In the case of models having the weather or upper deck in either 2 or 3 different sections, at differing levels, then the 1^st plank is commonly run along the line of the main or middle deck then follows its natural course both aft and fore. There are quite a few modes that simply fall into this category.

ü  A lot of model boat kits that feature below deck open gunports necessitate that the initial plank follow the line of the gunports and it’ll run right away below or above a row of gunports.

When you’ve recognized the position of the initial plank, join it into position using the PVA glue and without any tapering. Ensure that both planks follow the same line and are a mirror image of each one another.

A Guide To Weathering Ship Model Kits

There is nothing quite like shiny, newly-finished ship model kits and there is a real sense of achievement when it is all put together. However, even though some scale models look wonderful with a clean coat of paint, others benefit from a more aged, authentic look to a great extent. This is where weathering comes in, and with a few choice methods, a finished scale model can be converted into a realistic duplication of the actual thing.

The following are a few weathering tips that you need to keep in mind:

Beginning weathering

As with the entire range of scale models, having good reference material is a good place to begin with. Things such as age, environment, shape, construction, and level of maintenance will have an effect on the way the scale model is supposed to be weathered. As an instance, water will run down or even pool on a scale model to cause rusting. Some scale models can rust right through, while more robust, armored scale models have a tendency to just demonstrate surface rust.

Some aluminum scale models do not rust at all. The majority of them get regular maintenance, but some normally necessitate the least maintenance and are rather exposed to higher degrees of wear and tear. The sequence in which you weather is significant for attaining the most genuine, realistic results.

Before you begin weathering the scale model, you are supposed to initially get rid of any residue or grease, apply the selected color of paint, and add any decals. If you simply are determined to add a coat of dust, paint every detail in advance. However, if you are planning a more detailed weathering job, it may be easier to paint the details as you go.

With the intention of accomplishing the most genuine and realistic outcomes, the array in which you weather plays a crucial role. Beginning with a ‘factory finished’ vehicle, begin by breaking down the color. After that, apply wear and exposure effects to the paintwork. Continue by drawing attention to any metallic effects where paint has worn through, and finish by showcasing exposed metal for areas that have taken the highest level of wear.

Weathering military ships

There are several types of military ships that usually go through a higher amount of wear and tear as compared to other ships. If you are working on a military ship scale model, there are a few things that you can take into account to achieve that weathered finish.

As ships age, they turn out to be discolored and dirty. With the aim of breaking down a factory-finish, just apply washes of white, burnt umber and pale yellow oil paint to the ship scale model in no specific sequence, judging by the changing affect how much to put on.

The experts for scale modeling working with a variety of ship model kits always recommend that muddy water splashes can be suggested using pale, almost white streaks. You can always abide by the things mentioned above in order to give your scale model a wonderful weathered look!