All About Cleaning An Airbrush For Model Boat Kits

An airbrush is one of the types of equipments used by professional hobbyists while building model boat kits in order to give the finished more an immaculate feel and finish. An airbrush is mechanical equipment in which the air and the paint are combined together internally. When the button is pushed down, the air is passed through the nozzle and the paint is diffused on the components of the scale model. This leads to a lot more superior atomization, and allows you to create perfect, even patterns.

With the help of minor tuning to either the supply of paint or air, you can create a huge range of amazing effects effortlessly. By swapping out the needle of the paint, you can add even more assortment to the patterns for paint spray, making this an extremely useful tool if you have a little bit of innovative stylishness.

So, before we come to the ways to clean an airbrush, you will need to select the kind of airbrush. The following are the two basic types of airbrushes available for scale modeling:

ü  Single Action Airbrush

ü  Dual Action Airbrush

How to clean an airbrush

When the paint brush is dirty, it comes out to be very difficult to carry out flawless work, and an airbrush is precisely the same. Even very little amounts of dry paint can have an effect or slow down the performance of the airbrush while working with any of the model boat kits. So, make sure the equipment is cleaned properly right after every use.

Always make use of a tissue paper or a rag for the purpose of getting rid of the reservoir and then half-fill it with the thinner. The thinner must be blown through the airbrush until there are no noticeable particles of the paint. Hold a tissue paper or a rag over the needle of the paint to compel the air back into the reservoir, and allow it to bubble back to clean the entire passages. Always bear in mind to keep away from standing the needle on its point because this causes it to bend.

After it has been used a little bit, strip down the airbrush and drench the head and the needle in thinner for the night. Keep away from standing the needle on its tip for the reason that it can make it twist and, at times, it can even break down.

Repairing a twisted needle of an airbrush

The needle must be held against a leveled surface at the angle of the point, run the fingernail across the point at the same time as revolving the needle.

So, are you also in search of a new airbrush to complete your scale model? You can always take references and professional help from the experts in the industry or can even consider approaching a local hobby store. No matter what sort of model boat kits you are working with, with the help of a right airbrush, you can transform the overall finish of the scale model tremendously!

Essentials To Choose A Wooden Boat Model Kit

Getting one of the best wooden model boat kits is essential for every scale modeler. Whoever, when it comes to selecting one amongst a variety of them available on the market, you must keep the following things in mind:

ü  The type of hull

Several kinds of the hull may be more at ease for beginners as well. Even though a solid hull has fewer components to put together, however, it actually confines what you can put up. Plank on bulkhead models are a bit more complex. This is most likely one of the most general kind of scale models to build. Although they are still in the realm of beginners, however, they will necessitate more work. You are going to have a lot of alternatives with this sort of hull.

Plank on frame models are the most minimal. You have got to build the whole thing essentially from the bones. It has a more practical frame and keel, something very similar to an actual ship.

ü  Instructions in the kit

The instructions are vital for the reason that these are not only snap-in plastic components. You have to make the majority of the components on our own. Especially, if you are a novice, this can be overpowering if the instructions are not understandable. Instructions differ between retailers for the reason that a lot of the model boat kits are designed by a person under contract. They may or may not have experience writing instructions for beginners.

An approach to check if the instructions are clear enough for you is to carry out a search online and read them prior to you make a decision to buy a specific scale model. Some of the kits even consist of a practicum, which is a quick course-like walkthrough. They can help guide you through the details of building the ship prior to ever actually pick up any of the components.

Most important of all, a list of numbered components is supposed to be included, so you know for sure that you’ve got everything you need before you get halfway through and understand something is missing.

ü  The cost of the kit

The last but not the least aspect to mull over is the amount you are ready to shell out. A few kits can be prohibitively costly. If you are an experienced hobbyist, the expense may be worth it. However, being a novice, you do not wish to be trapped with a model you have sunk a lot of money into. That said, at times, the more money you shell out, the better quality components you get. You are required to balance the price with the quality so that you are expected to complete the build as a result of quality components but not so trapped in the money factor that it is not entertaining any longer.

Without any doubt, building model boat kits is a brilliant hobby, but it calls for patience and coordination of hands and eyes. If you think you are ready for all that, it is the right time to get a quality scale model for you.

General Instructions While Using Glue To Join Model Kit Components

If you would like the surfaces of the ship model kits you stick together to have strong bonds, it is necessary that you abide by the general guidelines that are mentioned below. However, if you do not succeed to abide by them, you are most likely to have fragile bonds, which can be wasteful.

ü  You are supposed to clean the surface prior to the glue is required to be applied. It is necessary that you comprehensively clean the surface before making use of the glue. You are supposed to clean the surface to be free of things such as loose particles, grease, and dirt. If you apply the adhesive with these on the surface, then it may not be as effective in joining the two surfaces.

ü  Then try roughing up the surface. This is not mandatory since it just applies at the time of employing the adhesives that have a label showing that you are supposed to be employing them with rough surfaces. You may make use of sandpape3r in order to rough up the surface. The surface should be cleaned when you’re done. This step is very important because roughing will add to the surface area of the component that’s in contact with the adhesive, therefore, in the end, enhances the bond strength between the two components you’re putting together.

ü  Clamping time is when you either hold the components ship model kits collectively or leave them as they dry up. If you’ve got any needless interruptions, then the bond of the components is expected to be less durable and weak.

ü  You are supposed to control your impatience. Even though this sounds simple to do, however, you may quickly fall prey and start making use of things prior to they’re completely cured. If you do this, then you’ll make the bond less durable because it won’t have been strong enough the moment you use before the components you join together being completely cured.

Issues with adhesives

Plastic sorts of cement may often not bond surfaces that have paint. This is for the reason that they’re for use mostly with plastics. However, you can scratch away a little color from the surface you would like to join together and apply adhesive on the spots to join together. This allows the cement to bond together effectively.

You may get rid of the adhesive from the surfaces you don’t desire it by rubbing it using a soft cloth. However, if they’re more, you may use a brilliant rubbing compound such as a tube of toothpaste. On the other hand, you may make use of a polishing kit. If it is a pure fog then model wax, liquid acrylic floor wax or clear enamel can help you to get rid of it.

You should make use of the adhesives in places with adequate ventilation. In case you inhale the vapor, take proper care since they direct in their packaging materials. Keeping the instructions mentioned above while working with ship model kits will make sure you come up with a durable scale model!

Steps To Build Deck Rope Coils

Deck rope coils are one of the slight additional details that make the deck of the ship model kits stand out. The following are a few steps that will help you get the job done right the first time:

Ø  Double-sided tape, scrap wood and brass. Sizes are controlled by what you have in the scrap boxes.

Ø  A piece of plywood is glued to 25mm dowel, then apply a piece of tape to the surface of the ply.

Ø  Drill a hole in the base of the scrap timber to a depth of around 20 mm to accompany the brass sleeve. Load the table top into the sleeve. The top piece will now be capable of spinning in the completed jig.

Ø  Choose the required gauge and color of rigging cord for the job.

Ø  Pull the cord through the bees wax to obtain maximum control of the cord.

Ø  Ready the tape by taking away the protective coat.

Ø  Mark the center of the top and begin coiling the end of the cord, applying light pressure that will keep the cord under control.

Ø  The technique is to turn coil and add pressure to the top as you go. It is at this point that you decide what diameter you require for the job.

Ø  Apply white PVA wood glue and rub in so as to cover the coil.

Ø  Drying time of ship model kits is supposed to be roughly none hour. Test as you go, or apply heat lights if required.

Ø  Once the coiled rope is dry, do away with the piece with a flat blade ready for installation.

Ø  Make use of PVA wood glue in order to join the piece and clean up where required.

Capstan Bars & Handspikes

These are essential equipment on the majority of scale models and if they are loose and not connected to the windlass or capstan then the holes in the windlass and the capstan to house these bars are supposed to be square. If the capstan bar is installed in the capstan, each bar is supposed to be around 1/3 the beam of the ship.

Windlass

A winch, particularly one on a ship, the windlass is an apparatus for moving heavy weights. Usually, a windlass consists of a horizontal cylinder supported between cheeks at each end, it is rotated by the turn of a handspike inserted into the barrel. On a ship it is usually octagonal in shape to stop slippage, it even generally consists of a pinion and gear system to gain benefit with heavier loads. As a result of limited space on a ship, and as one man could merely turn the drum by a quarter of a turn per pull, the use was discontinued for bigger ships with heavy loads to shift.

No matter what part of the ship model kits you are working with, always keep in mind that you need to concentrate on it to ensure it has been joined properly and will not come out at any time in the future.

Finishing The Initial Layer Of Planking

No matter what sort of model boat kits you are working on, make sure you set up a table that represents the number of bulkhead frames and includes the transom as well. In order to decide the width of the plank at each bulkhead frame, a dressmakers tape is supposed to be utilized with the intention of calculating the distance between Plank 1 and the keel at each bulkhead frame. Document these dimensions in the table.

For the Norfolk, the distance between the keel and the Plank 1 at the mid-ship bulkhead frames is 88 mm. the width of the plank is 5 mm. therefore, there’ll need to be 88/5 = 17.6 planks to be fitted to cover the hull. Keep in mind that there’ll always be a small amount to creep in plank width as you advance down the hull.

For the boat model you’re building, apply the technique mentioned above to decide the number of planks required. Then, making use of the dimensions you’ve made and noted in the table, divide each by the number of planks to decide the plank width at each bulkhead frame. Note down in the table.

From the dimensions for the Norfolk, you’ll discover that roughly 1 mm will need to be tapered off the bow and stern end of the planks. This is usual for a bluff bowed hull. Once more for the Norfolk, you’ll discover the planks will need to be tapered from Point A – where the plank begins to curve around the bow – previously recognized.

At the stern, the planks will need to be tapered from a roughly ½ way between bulkhead frames 8 and 9. Each of these points must be marked clearly on the planks – always prepare two planks together. Make sure you keep away from forgetting to mark the planks as previously described. Taper the two planks collectively. In order to taper the planks, put them in a vice with the amount to be taken off sitting proud of the vise jaws and position the marked point sitting flush with the jaws. Make use of the mini plane and/or file in order to get rid of the surplus timber.

Make sure you employ the same technique for the entire planks to be prepared. Fit each plank under the previously placed plank. Glue and pin in position.

The next point is vital: As you advance with the planking down the hull, you’ll arrive at a point where the plank doesn’t wish to lay flat. Compelling the plank into position will result in it to twist and a gap will come into view between the bow block and the plank.

Always keep in mind that for Norfolk, the initial plank is attached in place 3.5 mm under the top of each bulkhead frame. This is carried out in order to let a bulwark to be fitted soon after. It is essential to check that the initial planks of the model boat kits are symmetrical and check that they are a replica of one another at the stern and the bow.

Types Of Glues Required For Building Model Boat Kits

There is a complete variety of glues that are specially created for building model boat kits. While applying the glue to the surfaces to be joined don’t apply it using the nozzle of the bottle. Use a brush or a glue syringe to coat the surfaces to be attached.

Ø  Contact Glue

As the name implies, contact glues provide a nearly immediate bond between the two surfaces. The glue is a gel and is brushed on to both surfaces that are to be attached. Both surfaces can be bonded together as soon as the glue is dried. At the time of lining up, the two surfaces great care is required to be taken since the bond is made right away and is really strong. In the case of inaccuracy, removal will result in damage to the timber. Prior to applying the glue, make sure you dry fit the parts to be joined.

Contact glue is perfect for joining the 2^nd layer of planking over the 1^st layer of planking. The 2^nd layer is typically a veneer decorative timber like mahogany or walnut and is fixed in place very effectively using contact glue. Be aware of the vapors given off by contact glue because it may result in breathing issues. Always make sure that there is ample ventilation while working with model boat kits and making use of contact glue.

Ø  Two part epoxy glue

It is composed of two parts – a hardener and a resin – that are in different tubes and are combined together in equal quantities. Based on the ambient temperature, this glue simply takes roughly five minutes to dry out completely. It is perfect glue when it comes to joining metal to metal or wood. Make use of a spatula or a matchstick to blend the hardener and resin on a glass block or scrap piece of wood. The glue will dry really hard and clear. Scrape off any surplus as the glue is still in its plastic phase prior to it becomes firm.

Ø  Cyanoacrylate or super glue

Super glue or Cyanoacrylate glue is very quick drying. Based on the ambient temperature, it is just a matter of seconds for this glue to set firmly. It is packed in a small tube of the plastic bottle and extremely small amounts are required to be applied. Such sort of glue can be utilized to the purpose of joining metal to metal or metal to wood.

When it comes to fixing the planking to the hull, always keep away from making use of super glue. In addition, this glue is not at all recommended to seal a rigging know for the reason that it can make the cord brittle and hard. Once more, never consider applying this glue straightforwardly to the job using the nozzle. Make use of the point of a scalpel blade to apply the glue to the location required.

When it comes to applying glue to model boat kits, always keep in mind that great care must be exercised. A little error can result in a substantial injury.

All You Need To Know About Plank Tapering

The majority of beginners working with different model boat kits have various concerns about planking. There are different things about planking that every scale modeler must be aware of. However, let us get started with plank tapering.

If you spend some time with a piece of string or a tape measure and a ruler you will quickly notice the reason it is essential to taper the planks to a tapered width at either one or both ends. There will be an apparent dissimilarity when you calculate the distance from the bottom of the keel to the level of the deck. In merely theoretical terms, if the dimension at one frame is 80mm (for example) and at another frame, it is 120mm (for instance), then every plank requires being narrowed down to 2/3 (80/120) of its total width at the 1^st frame. With this, every plank will arrive at the keel jointly.

In general terms, a bluff bowed boat model will necessitate less tapering as compared to a sharp bowed ship. Even though it is likely that some tapering will be necessitated as planks go towards the stern, however, it is even fairly possible that the distance, deck to the bottom of the keel, will be bigger at the position of the last couple of frames than it is at.

Determine from the instructions provided by the manufacturer of model boat kits or the plans, the location of the initial plank. Even though it was common to begin planking at the keel and progress upwards, however, in scale modeling, the professionals typically begin the initial plank in one of the following three positions:

1.    With a boat model that has a straight or flush upper deck, the initial plank must be laid with its upper edge level with the deck surface. It’ll have the top edge up to 5mm to 10mm underneath the level of the deck. Anywhere this is carried out, it is for the purpose of making the construction simple at a later phase but in any case, it’ll be corresponding to the line of the deck.

2.    With a ship model in which the weather or upper deck is in either 2 or 3 different parts, at conflicting levels, the initial plank usually runs along the line of the main or middle deck, which then follows its natural course. There quite a handful of ship models that simply fall in this type of category.

3.    A lot of boat models that feature below deck open gun ports necessitate that the initial plank follows the line of the gun ports and it’ll run right away below or above a row of gun ports.

Once the specific place of the initial plank is recognized, PVA glue must be used for the purpose of sticking it and keep away from tapering it. Ensure that both planks must follow the same line and are a mirror image of one another.

While working with any of the model boat kits, make sure that you keep the points mentioned above for accurate plank tapering.

A Guide To Fitting The First Plank Of Ship Model

Fitting the first plank will cater to be the foundation of the entire hull of wood ship kits. Initially, you need to decide from the instructions and/or plans the location of the 1st plank. In actual ship building, it was standard to begin planking at the keel and work upwards. But in model building, it generally begins with the 1st plank in one of the following three positions:

1. With a ship that has a “flush” or straight upper deck then the 1st plank is laid with its upper edge level with the surface of the deck. In some instances, the 1st plank will have its top edge 5 to 10mm underneath the level of the deck. This is carried out to facilitate the construction of bulwarks at a later phase but in any case, it’ll be parallel to the line of the deck.

2. In the case of those models in which the “whether” or “upper” deck is in either 2 or 3 distinct segments, at varying levels, then the 1st plank is usually run along the line of the “main” or “middle” deck then follows its natural course both “aft” and “fore”.

3. A lot of models that feature under deck open gun ports will necessitate the 1st plank to abide by the line of the gun ports and it’ll run instantly over or under a row of gun ports.
Once the position of the 1st plank is decided, you’ll necessitate bending it around the curve of the hull both aft and fore. You’ll apparently need to make use of a plank blender in order to achieve the curvature that you have need of.

Take one of the planks to be utilized and put it in place. Spring the plank lightly around the bow. At the point where the plans begin to curve, mark the point as A. next, spring the plank around the stern lightly. At the point where the plank begins to curve, mark the point as B.
Take one more plank and transfer both of these points on to it. Mark an arrow on each plank pointing towards the bow. Plus, mark every plank “P” for the port (left) and “S” for starboard (right). This has to be carried out every plank you will prepare, and the entire planks will be made in pairs.
From point A make use of a plank bender to smoothly fold in the direction of the bow. Trial fit the plank. If required, make use of the plank bender once more by lightly crimping between the previous crimps. It’ll add to the bend of the plank. Do this procedure again until you’re contented with the curvature of the plank.
From point B, make use of the plank bender to lightly crimp the plank toward the stern. Trial fit the plank. If required, make use of the plank bender once again but lightly crimp between the preceding crimps. Do the procedure again until you’re contented with the curvature of the plank.
Keeping this in mind will ensure you make the most of wood ship kits!